I suspect from that title I'm going to get abuse from those who love/live on the island, but thus post is not a flame, just an honest opinion.

To set the scene, we traveled from Ireland for 11 nights, 2 adults in early 40's and two girls, aged 9/12. We stayed all inc. at the Gran Castillo. We never visited the island for a busy holiday, but for a rest and recharge one, hence the AI at a hotel with good pool and facilities. In terms of other countries in previous years it's generally southern spain, not the tourist areas but in the mountains or quieter resorts.

The first thing that struck me is the terrain, it's very barren. To be expected given the formation of the island. Not uninteresting, but not "picturesque". It's a very rugged landscape though and fascinating once you get close to it and look at how it's formed.

Next was the weather. Fantastic. It was very hot on our last few days (Friday/Saturday just gone), even the locals were complaining, but still comfortable enough. We had a few overcast moments some days but nothing that could spoil anything.

Next, people. To say very friendly is a cliche, and as we were in a 5star you'd expect it, but generally all the locals we met in bars and restaurants were friendly and happy to help us. We had a few bad experiences in some shops with staff trying to confuse us with the euro: Claiming we gave them a lower value note than we did, or trying to short change us. Living in Ireland though we're used to the euro so pulled them up on it each time. I suspect they think most English (I'm english so they picked up on the accent) aren't too familiar with the currency so chance it. This happened more than once and did leave a bad taste in the mouth. But other than a few bad pennies the people are lovely.

Beware the cabbies though, nice seemingly honest people, but mental drivers

Cost: It's cheap. For most everything. We found a shop in the Rubicon Mariner selling genuine branded goods and it was cheap. Eating out, which we didn't do much due to being AI was cheap when we did. This isn't just based on the prices in Ireland, we know the price of stuff in the UK too, and Lanzarote is cheap.

That's the good stuff, now the bad.

I was disappointed with the Island itself. It seems it only exists for one thing, tourism. There seems to be no history, no culture, no interesting architecture. EVERYTHING is geared towards tourism. Now we're by no means culture vultures, but do like to get a feel for a countries true way of life, this was not apparent on the Island.

Architecturally the island is a mess. It's appalling that the towns away from the seafronts have been allowed to be left in such a terrible state. Obviously the island has suffered a massive property crash in recent years, but it seems no attempt has been made to leave these derelict building sites in any fit visual state. it's just a case of down tools, walk away and the let the the places rot.

And there are a lot of derelict building sites. At least in PB. Some just huge holes in the ground, some half built, some finished but not sold. On one of the excursions we did the bus toured around PB to make pickups. At the seafront the large hotels were unaffected, but the smaller slightly inland hotels were. Chances are if your booking one of these your going to be near, or in some cases surrounded by, these disused sites. Not very pleasant to look at and I suspect a hotbed for local crime.

We visited most of the main resorts and have to say being disappointed by them all. They are very samey, with the main drags all being populated by the same types of shops selling the same stuff, some would say tat. There are some nice wee shops selling nice locally made stuff (we think!) but mostly it's cheap beach tat and cheap imported "local" gifts. The hi-light is the Rubicon Mariner which was lovely with some nice craft shops. The best way to shop is at the various markets we found. Again all much the same, but nice.

The excursions: I got the feeling most of the excursions were there simply to take money off tourists and give them something to do for a day, opposed to the island having some wonderful experiences to offer and an excursion being the best way to do them. We did a couple but would bother again. over priced, under resourced and not long enough!

The hotel. One word: Wonderful. I'll do a write up on it if any one wants it, but generally speaking everything you read about it right, it's fantastic. We're booking to return at Xmas!

So, finally, would we return? Yep. It's a great place for a certain type of holiday. If your looking to experience the Islands culture, learn about it's history, soak up it's atmosphere, all that sort of thing, I'd have to say don't go to Lanzarote, there are much nicer countries to visit.

If you want to go to relax, meet great people (the Island seems to attract a very different tourist to many other countries: More interested in having a good time and chilling than running around looking at stuff) eat lovely food, walk some rugged walks, drink some cheap booze and generally have a bar/beach/pool based hotel with guaranteed good weather i think it's hard to beat.

We met some wonderful people, my wife even met an old uni friend she lost contact with 20yrs ago!) and had a fabulous time. i wouldn't go for two weeks, or ten days again, personally I think the Island is best experienced in short measures, but we will definitely be back.

As a foot note, thanks to those who answered my many questions before our trip.

Lanzarote's history is that of an island "discovered" in the 14th century and popluated by a few thousand people eking out a living with no surface water until about 50 years ago with the advent of tourism, and, critically, the use of desalination which allowed the population to increase rapidy. So, the traces of "culture" on the landscape and society are few - perhaps analogous to the North American Prarie states, which only had a tiny population until about 150 years ago. There are some historical buildings, notably in Teguise, with its 14th century buildings, and castle. I'm sure you didn't know that about one mile from your hotel behind the Papagayo beach of El Pozo is the ruin of a 14th century cathedral and its surrounding town.

However, you may have misrepresented the island's attractiveness. I well remember finding it somewhat barren on my first visit, but when you get your eye in, most people find it stunningly beautiful. Living in Playa Blanca, I do agree that there are some monuments to failed greed around we could do without, but I don't think they detract from the attractiveness of the centre. As for towns away from the seafront, I think you are referring only to the resorts - which probably account for less than 1% of the island's area - a bit like judging the west coast of Ireland by Limerick alone. I'm sure you'd change your opinion if you visited the original towns, such as Haria, Uga, Teguise and Yaiza, they are tranquil oases. If you would care to come back to the island in early Spring, say March, I'd be delighted to show you a verdant landscape, full of people living the way they have for hundreds of years. Alternatively, take one of the free walks in Timanfaya, lead by guides who come from mainland Spain, but have remained here for 20 years, captivated by the island. They are a fount of knowledge of the culture.

I feel that you had only gone a on few tourist trips......the island is wonderful place.... Did you go to the cliffs and beach at Famara ? Did you visit Jamos Del Aqua ? Mirador Del Rio ? Travel over on boat to La gracsio >? Cesar Manrique House ? Visit Harai Market on s saturday morning where locals and real craft people sell their goods ? Yaiza is an inland town voted prettiest village in whole of spain for 3 years running.........La Geri........where you can walk in and try all different wines that they make without pressure to buy any........Walk aroung the marina at Purto calero.......Timanfaya National Park...the museum down the road telling the story of the volcanic eruptions ? The walk in the green caves in the volcanic bubble where people used to live years ago ?? The cactus gardens......Need i go on ? I think maybe you should have asked questions before your trip to get an idea of where you would want to visit. Go back with an open mind and see some of these things. Jason

The guanches used to live on the Island. A story in itself....Where did they come from?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guanches

Christopher Columbus had a house on the Island for his mistress......

Many of the castles are centuries old, the Island is Barrenly beautiful, stunning colours around the volcanic area´s, also pure devastation, 1730-1736, a seriously long time for a Volcanic eruption. Many villages buried under the ash and lava. Re-run in 1824, luckily for the inhabitants not as long.

Many places to visit and discover, guanche caves outside Costa Teguise, centuries old caves made by nature (volcano´s), the history of the original guanche inhabitants.......

The wine growing region, so different from anywhere else in the world, semi circles utilising the porous rocks given by the volcano´s to ensure the water is available (collected at night by the rocks) to produce fantastic vines to provide stunning wines. El Campesino, El Grifo to name two, many more local vineyards sell their own wines.

Culture is in the eye of the person who views it.

Visited some of the above mentioned, missed lots, but that's only normal really as I was there for 11 days. Saying that, the islands marketing campaign doesn't do itself any favours as much of the above information was not available when I asked various information sources.

I will certainly look into some of the above on the next visit.

I'm amazed the hotel ddn't have the information in reception. I'm going there this week to met a friend, I'll have a look! It's a shame you have to dive into negativity, only to have to admit you didn't give the island chance! Please read up first, and hire a car next time you come, then you'll see more than the touristy bits.

I first visited the island in 1996, and before i landed i had read (before i possessed a computer) all about the Guanches, and couldnt wait to see Manrique's sculptures and art. I loved visiting manrique's house, and the caves Jameos del Agua, and the Green caves, and reading about the people who hid in them. Haria and Yaiza are beautiful towns with some lovely buildings, the castles are also very interesting. I think Stevebb maybe you should read a little about the island before your return, and i'm sure you will find lots to look at next time, and hopefully really appreciate the island for the amazing place it is.

ps...the bars are ok too

At least you are being honest stevebb.
I lived in Lanza for 2 years, loved the place been visiting since 1989.

Two others to maybe try,
Tiagua Agricultural museum, outlining how farming and agriculture was in the past and also Museo Tanit in San Bartolomé, http://www.museotanit.com/

I must admit, some of Lanza´s tourist info agencies are their own worst enemy, but asking on sites like this will, hopefully, get you idea´s that maybe even the tourist authorities would not know or offer to "tourists" who are there of course for the sun, sea and "standard" tourist opportunities.

Maybe try a short visit and get a car for 2 days, visit the "hidden" Lanza and you will hopefully be very surprised. In fact I will go as far as to say you will be surprised. Read upon the guanches and the history of Lanza, do search´s, who knows what hidden gems you will discover.

I still miss the Island and hopefully once things sorted in Uk and Phillipines I will return.
2 holidays already booked!

I'd agree with some of the points and disagree vehementally with others......though to be cheeky am amazed no-one has tipped off steve for being a little hypocritical of staying in a AI and then demanding culture....

Am guessing most of your tours were via coach tour and dare I say and this is with my snobs hat on, many of the places that coaches visit are a little further down the food chain if culture is what you are after.

My general rule of thumb is if the venue can fit a coach in then I'm not stopping!!! Eg... Chupadero in La Geria, the better restaurants in Golfo, Arrieta, all of Quemada etc etc....


Walker is bang on in that for all but the last 50 years the island has lived a pretty much subsistence life style.

I would spin the arguement on its head and say that I am amazed how much culture there is for a barren volcanic island...

Excursions - yes majority of organised excursions are a waste of time and money unfortunately - I don't think you can remotely do the island justice unless you hire a car. You can't get lost for long, and I have special memories of being lost in the hills above Haria looking for a petrol station....


Shopping - totally agree - shops all sell over priced tat - but then not really looking for shopping on hols! Ditto markets.

Ironically the Rubicon Marina is only 10 years old and made to look much older!!!


True way of life in Lanza? Not in Playa Blanca. What is the true way of life? Slogging your guts out in the salt pans?! Tenuous life as a fisherman? Living off gofio?! Yuck!

That's me told then! Lanzarote is steeped in culture and history!

Interesting that the main replies have focused on my criticism of the island, not the pluses. But then I guess the title asked for it!

As I said, I'm just being honest, telling it how it was, for me, not for others, but just for me. If the island has more to offer than I found, which is obviously does, then my post will at least hi-light to others who are going that if that's your thing then you need to dig a little deeper than some other countries.

All I will say is that most on this thread I'm thinking have the luxury of hindsight and more over a lot of experience on the island. I'm giving an honest view as a tourist, who was interested in finding out a bit more about the place, but found information hard to come by.

I'll ignore the AI comment Foodie. Nowt wrong with AI, it's serves a purpose, especially for a family wanting to spend time enjoying the island not finding somewhere good to eat. There is more to a country than the eateries.

There are negatives:



But, again I then beg to differ on AI, food of excellent quality is available all over the Island. Fair deals, AI gives a figure of what the total price is, but you don´t get the cultural (sorry) food available if you go and try.

But again, thank you stevebb for highlighting the negatives and positives you found on Lanza, maybe some people will take note.

I´m back self catering and visiting my favourite haunts shortly, then again shortly after.....

Lanzarote has a recorded history of about 600 years, based upon a small population. I think the thing that hit a raw nerve was that you decided to post a report on of the whole island based upon a, self-confessed, narrow view of it. The constructive bits were OK, but the negative bits helped nobody, except those who opt for a bucket and spade holiday, which you can get cheaper in Benidorm. As you see, many people here have seen past that shallow appreciation. You appear, from your post, to be a thoughtful person, so I urge you to come back, and see the island as it is, not the tourist restaurants, which are tacky the world over. We spent time on most of the Med and Canary islands, before deciding to live here.

Walker, whats the use of people only posting the good bits? It gives an imbalanced view. The bad bits, informed or not, are also important, IMO.

I thought I'd balanced everything I said with enough "my experience" type comments anyway, maybe not.

The good thing about this thread is that anyone looking more from the Island knows it's there, you just need to hunt for it, and now the places to look for it.

We do plan to visit again, so will make more of an effort next time, honest

But we will be going AI.

Just thought I'd get me tuppence in...

Will be visiting the island this year, and we can't wait to do so - mainly thanks to an excellent day tour we took when staying on Fuerteventura a couple of years ago. It gave us a very good overview of the island and made us want to return to spend more time exploring at our leisure. I thought our tour guide was terrific, very passionate about the island and Cesar Manrique, and very evocative of its culture and history. What we saw of Timanfaya alone was astonishing.

I know various people who've been and all without exception say they would visit again. I was telling someone just the other day about our planned trip, and she was enthusing a great deal about her own recent visit. Her advice was definitely to hire a car and go around and see it. Which is what we'll be doing! We're going to a villa and will be eating out and have been scouring t'internet for all the good local eating places!

So generally people I know give it the thumbs up on all counts.

Steve, I gotta strongly advise you hire a car over Christmas. The roads are pretty good to drive on. I hired a car for 3 days on my first visit and just explored. My first couple of visits were for a week, now I go for 3 weeks at a time and I'll hire for a week or more. I always stay around PDC. Different friends come with me every visit and I like to show them all the little gems.

A couple of days I'll take them up North, do the green caves, Jameos del Agua, have a gorgeous lunch in sleepy Orzola, pop up to Mirador Del Rio, stop off in Haria for a little coffee and head back down via Famara for some rays on my favourite beach in the whole world.

Other days I'll do the south, visiting Manrique foundation, Timfanya volcano, have lunch in beautiful El Golfo and walk off lunch by strolling round to the view the green pool, visit the spectacular Los Hervideros (especially if it is really really windy) spend some time and maybe have lunch in PB, I'll sometimes visit Papagayo (but I feel its just way to windy to bathe), travel back up via the mountainous Femes and stop off for afternoon coffee in tiny Quemada or the harbour at Puerto Calero.

If you are still on Lanza for 6th January, then drive up to Arrecife and Tias and take you kids to the street parades of the 3 Kings, the locals put on a spectacular show with loads of music bands and different themes and then the 3 kings on their camels throwing sweets into the mad crowds who battle to catch them. The locals sure know how to put on a street party and this is what confounded my love for Lanza. Hope you enjoy your next visit.